Cityscapes as Muse: How Urbanism and Cinematic Energy Shape the Collections of Vorozhbyt&Zemskova
Urbanism, the energy and style of big cities, their mystery and cinematic quality have long inspired the creative duo of Olena Vorozhbyt and Tetyana Zemskova in creating the collections of Vorozhbyt&Zemskova.
Fashion Press Corner / Vorozhbyt&Zemskova
9/4/2024
Industrial architecture, loft elements, the textures of concrete and asphalt, the gray palette of skyscrapers and city buildings combined with flashes of night lights and frantic dynamics—this vibrant mix is utilized by the designers in the new season, staying true to the brand's DNA. This is a story about a city that never sleeps. The modern metropolis changes every minute, motivating its residents to keep moving at the same pace.
In the SS25 season, the strength accumulated over the past years is particularly palpable: like armor, cities and people are ready to confront unexpected challenges that aim to break them; together, they have become more resilient, resistant, prepared, and strong. This is why metal details, buckles, and chains appear on Vorozhbyt&Zemskova clothing, showcasing the power inherent in this material. The pieces in the collection also gain their own strength: massive designs, large elements, and elongated heavy sleeves. The key feature of this collection is the double details, collars, and pockets, reminding us that a city is a complex and multi-layered structure.
In their signature style, the designers play with contrasts in the new collection, showcasing how harsh a big city can be, creating obstacles, but eventually becoming kind-hearted and offering new opportunities. The same applies to this year’s Vorozhbyt&Zemskova line: dense pile wool is combined with semi-transparent organza, gloomy gray shades are paired with delicate milky tones, and straight silhouettes are softened by accentuated waists. The colors of the collection include all shades of gray, milky, black, white, and pearl. The fabrics in the collection are pile wool, cashmere, semi-transparent organza, viscose, and silk.
How is the brand coping with the full-scale invasion
Getting ready for the upcoming Ukrainian Fashion Week SS25, which will take place in Kyiv from September 1 to 4, the UFW team reached out to the participating brands with a question: How is your brand coping with the full-scale invasion? Olena Vorozhbyt and Tetiana Zemskova, the designer duo behind Vorozhbyt&Zemskova, shared their thoughts and future plans with the editors.
The start of a full-scale war was a shock for us, as well as for all Ukrainians. For the first three days, we were stunned, sitting in front of the TV, unable to believe our eyes. Eventually, we snapped out of it and realized we should help those in need. Our driver, who joined the local territorial defense, was the first to reach out. At that time, the men lacked warm clothing as the beginning of spring was cold.
Our production team started sewing balaclavas from high-quality Italian knit. We gave some to the driver and distributed the rest at checkpoints. It was fairly easy for us because in the previous collections of the Vorozhbyt&Zemskova brand, there once were women’s balaclavas (collection AW/23).
Thanks to suppliers who provided us with materials, we could shift to producing such equipment as plate carriers and unloading vests according to NATO standards. We are grateful to all the employees who worked without payment in the first days and even brought their family members to help. All this significantly improved the speed and quality of our production processes.
Even in the midst of severe material shortages, it has been difficult to accept that the fabric color could not always match the thread color. We learned to regard such conditions as “designer decisions,” as everyone understood that it’s better to use reinforced threads than not to sew at all.
When the country’s production of military equipment expanded, we returned to our calling of creating collections of women’s clothing. Inspired by events in peaceful cities, we designed a collection of jackets and sweatshirts with reflective elements, aptly named “Blackout.”
Under the motto “we won’t give up,” our team members dedicated themselves to work and created a seasonal collection. We continue operating and are planning our third trip for the Fashion Week in Vienna. But before that, at the beginning of autumn, we will present the collection as part of the beloved Ukrainian Fashion Week.
Photos: Andriy Sokolov
