ALECTRA ROTHSCHILD/MASCULINA S/S'25: "You are Wasted Here, You are a Star"

The collection is called “You are wasted here, you are a star” which speaks to the position of trans people in our society. “We are wasted in this world because we are disproportionally experiencing extreme discrimination, homelessness, joblessness & violence for simply existing and obviously not appreciated for the Stars we are”, Alectra expressed.

The collection itself investigates intimacy and platonic love. This is shown by having garments such as nightgowns, robes, and leisure wear. These pieces are inspired by the 20’s Boudoir and the 20’s silhouette from Erté. It’s about the space in front of your vanity table putting on your glamour or getting undone with your close girlies around.

“Is it Vanity, or your Sanctuary?”

The collection finds itself between being on route from the club and being at home after the club. Romantic nightgowns are in juxtaposition to slutty clubwear that meets leathery racer garments such as racer pants and racer jackets. Alectra worked with techniques like ruffles, gatherings, deconstruction, and slashing Along with corsetry and created her own latex from scratch. The collection features Oleatex as a sustainable replacement for leather made from recycled polyester and olives, and deadstock lace and silks from the deadstock fabric company Belgerian Fabrics. The showpieces are created from upcycled garments, fabrics, and stockings.

“My first instinct right after showing “The REBIRTH Carry” FW24 was that I wanted the models to be lifted - to be on a sort of pedestal to make a quite literal societal power shift as the majority cast are trans and otherwise at the margins of society. I want everyone at the show to look up at us - where we truly deserve to be”, Alectra said.

The location is at The Hangar which is a club that hosts the party “Endurance” where Alectra worked as a picker in the door. So the models literally leave the club we party at and drive off to the afters on Motorbikes.

The collection is a romantic love letter to my queer and trans siblings.

Runway show details

ART DIRECTION: inspired by Wasteland Glam, Art Director Kristian Kirk, inter.agcy, transforms the open asphalt into a raw runway. The set, constructed from scaffolding and poles, captures the gritty essence of an urban wasteland, while working lights illuminate a towering three-floor platform where models perform. STYLING: the styling for the collection done in collaboration with Anna Gunvor Hyttel is done with headscarves referencing swashbuckling Pirates which mirrors the outlawed position of trans people in our society today. The shoes of the collection are gaffa taped on “after breaking your heel on a night out. “The after-hours beauty” is the concept of working with what you have turning everyday commodities like gaffa, one-time-use latex gloves, and whatever you have laying around into a sculpture of glamour. MAKEUP: the makeup created by Marie Dausell is inspired by the decadent 20s and the glamorous parties at the time, with a touch of bold colors and graphic shapes, referencing queer history and the ‘club kids’ aesthetic that comes undone. HAIR: The hair by Kasper Andersen explores the tension of being done and undone as you have been on a night out with your girlies. It’s decadent and glamour in decay.

MUSIC: The soundtrack created in collaboration with DJ g2g for the show encompasses all the research from the collection. It’s created from the idea of leaving the club on a motorbike and being on your way to the afterparty with your girls only. So you still have the club beat, with vocals from calling your friends to invite them over, it has anecdotes from the afters. The violins represent the romance and the metal sounds reflect the wasteland. It’s quite deconstructed like some of the collection featuring vocals by pvssy, Queen Jahanam, Miss Masculina, and Gia Gunn. CHOREOGRAPHY: The choreography by Thea Carla Schott is best described in her words: “The models sumptuously strut the runway in the glamorous bender parade, and put the dot in the sentence as they enter the exclusive ‘morning after sunlit’ grand dollhouse executing ancient mannequin supremacy. A vision of true beauty, that any muggle will only be so lucky to witness. Buckle your pumps and hop on bitch, you are in for a ride. Period.”

CASTING: “The Masculina cast is always made up of friends and family - the clothes are made for them and with them in mind. They are the foundation of the design process and equally as important. Alectra knows exactly who she wants and she wants hot girls only”, says Emma Matell.

www.iwantmasculina.com

Photos: James Chochrane